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Building a
Tuber 101 |
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| Tools
and supplies. High speed
rotary tool |
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| These
are time-consuming. What you see here is about 8 hrs work, believe
it or not! It's crucial for strength and visual appeal that
everything is even and lines up. It needs to sit level on a flat
surface, then built up from there. If you have to force, even a tiny bit, a part in place, there is a good chance that will twist the chassis out of what. Of course, as you get further into the project, the chassis gets much stronger and this is less and less likely. |
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| These
next three shots are after the tail section was started. You can
see that it's not even yet in that area, but you can see how it is
progressing. Another hour (counting smoke breaks, of course)! The pics after these will hopefully have a completed center section, maybe even the rear... posting as I go! |
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| I am
assembling the links and working out better shock locations than mine
has. Here is what I think the ride height should be. It's mocked up using my new set of axles, tires and shocks I picked up for the mudder project. |
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| Here
is the finished product. All that needs done is to finish up the
accessories and ship it off for the chassis to be painted, where it will
be sandblasted and powder coated... and shipped from there to the
customer, where I'll never see it all done and painted! :( I'll be making a belly pan and axle mounts for the servo(s) and upper links, as well as a set of steel links. |
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| Here
is the belly pan completed. The new owner will have to modify it
to suit. The pic of the belly pan on it's own is from MY truck, as
an example of how mine was done. It all depends on the drivelines
and transmission chosen. Basically, holes need to be drilled to mount the tranny, and there may need to be notches cut to clear the drive shafts. My notches are a lot bigger just because I run Revo shafts, and they are a lot thicker. |
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| Here is a requested shot of the rear linkage... |
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